A checklist of a few issues to consider...
| The landscape | Study maps; ordnance survey, contour, parish, street maps. Walk the boundaries. Talk to people. Look at the surrounding locality, find out about the history & culture of your area. |
| Underlying geology | Look for rock outcrops on the surface. You could dig down to the bedrock, but that's alot of work- check your local library for geological survey maps of your area. |
| Orientation | Is site north or south facing? What are the sun paths at different times of the year? Where are your sunny & shady spots? not only can these vary seasonally, they also change through the day. Are there spots where frost accumulates (Frost pockets tend to form in hollows & valleys). What is your height above sea level? |
| Soil type & condition | A simple hand test will determine type (i.e., sandy, clay, loam, etc). PH (alkalinity or acidity) can be measured with an inexpensive testing kit bought from any garden centre. Study existing vegetation. Many so called 'weeds' are indicators of soil type, condition & PH. Look at plant communities rather than individual specimens which might not be typical. Find out the history of the site; previous uses- if cultivated, were chemicals used? what is the drainage like (pour some water on the soil and see how quickly it soaks in). Is there any evidence of compaction? Dig a hole 1m square with straight sides to obtain a visual profile of the soil's structure and condition. |
| Weather patterns | Identify prevailing winds in your area, as well as any specific currents in your microclimate (eg, caused by buildings, trees, walls, fences). Significant wind effects can be determined by observing predominant leaning of trees on site or locally. Determine local rainfall patterns. Again this info is available from libraries or the meteorological office, but on a 'micro' level there can be significant variations over a few feet or less. Rain gauges can be simply made from old plastic bottles, place a few at different points about the site, eg, under trees, near walls, etc. When does the main growing season begin & end in your area? Dates of first & last frosts. |
| Slopes & contours | Contour lines can be accurately measured using an 'A' frame made from 3 pieces of wood, a length of string and a weight, slopes with a 'bunyip' (a water filled tube). All slopes above 12 degrees should be permanent vegetation, above 18 degrees should have permanent tree cover. Terracing and 'swales' (ditches dug along the contour lines) are 2 useful strategies for dealing with slope management. |
| Water | Is your site dry or boggy (see also 'soil' above)? any ponds/lakes or springs on site, or rivers/streams passing through? Moisture loving trees (eg, alder, willow) could indicate an underground watercourse, especially if seeming to follow a path. What is the water quality? Discoloration could indicate mineral/chemical deposition. Any sources of contamination or pollution, eg, industrial sites upstream? |
| Wildlife | Do a flora & fauna audit. Trees, shrubs, plants, flowers. Any edible or useful indigenous species, what do they tell you about your land? Many wild plants are indicators of soil fertility, PH, recent disturbance, etc. What else lives with you? Foxes, rabbits, frogs, newts, fish, birds, snakes, lizards, bees, insects, spiders, slugs. What do they tell you about your land? Do you need to counter their effects (eg, fence out rabbits), or can they be useful (eg, bees for pollination/honey, frogs for slug control, ladybirds eat aphids) |
| Utilities & services | Mains water supplies, electricity, gas, access (roads, tracks, paths & their condition) |
| A few other issues to think about | Structures & buildings (houses, barns, sheds, greenhouses), time, finances (if you've got 100 acres & no money, it might make sense to sell 60 acres and use the money to develop the other 40), susceptibility to human predation (ie, vandalism), other life commitments (job, family, etc) |